Day 2. Still here, remarkably. A better sleep than before, but we are still getting used to the sounds of the Campo dei Fiori – truly a remarkable urban space. The beautiful market stalls all close up around 4pm, pack up everything (..everything – tables, fruit boxes, canopies, display cases) and then the street sweepers such up all the trash. I could watch those things for hours – one guy tries to sweep the junk into piles, or ‘lanes’, and then the driver tries to line up each ‘lane’ and suck it all up. The drive does these looping patterns around the vendors who are still packing up – mesmerizing – and leaving the cobblestones clean. Just when you think he’s not going to get that bag,… he does! As evening descends, the dinner crowd comes out to dine on the Campo, in front of the restaurants that line the side, and the music starts. Every night is a different musician – so far we’ve heard trumpet, classical guitar, and accordion – and they play the ‘hits’. From classical music to Despacito to Frank Sinatra. Sometime after 10pm the party really gets going, with large groups of Italians letting loose. From 10pm to 2am is the loudest time of day. Some music but mainly just loud yelling, as Rick Steves call’s it – Rome’s Frat Party. Around 2am, the party winds down gradually – and who comes back? Streetsweeper! Suck it up, buddy – getting all the napkins, bottles, cigarette butts. This guy is done around 4am, and then there is peace. Until 6am, when the fruit vendors move back in and begin reassembling their market stalls. Incredible, the varied vibrancy of one, cobblestone plaza.
Our day was simple but exciting. We went with the Rome Center intern, Katie, to register our passports at the police station (something about the EU, establishing ourselves in Rome, who knows). Then I met with the other faculty and confirmed much about our first two weeks in the program. I think we will basically plan one week in advance – as long as we stay one week ahead of the students, we should be fine.
Back to the apartment for lunch, Rachel made some pasta and greenbeans from the market. I think she has a favored stall, and a favored lady-vendor. We will continue to grow this food-based relationship and see where it leads. After lunch and a rest, we went to another grocery store (for coffee, potatoes, flour, prosciutto), and then to a butcher. We ordered (mainly by pointing) a single chicken – butterflied open, and seasoned. Not to spoil it, but this was our dinner. We put some chopped vegetables (from the market – peppers, onions, eggplant, potatoes) in a roasting pan and then laid the chicken on top. 200-degrees Celsius later – it was incredible. A different kind of chicken, so simple so good.
After dinner, we got gelato. After stating to the kids much of the day that we “weren’t going to be getting gelato everyday,” we got to watch their little minds getting blown when we said we were going to get some. (Side note: we may have totally undercut our authority/authenticity as parents, but who cares). A quick walk towards Trastavere, near Pont Sisto – another great gelato stop. Cones this time, with a wafer cookie and cream on top. Flavors: Fior de latte and strawberry; salted carmel and pineapple.
Now they are in bed, and the Campo is having dinner – with nice music for all.
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